Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
